The Complete GT7 Tuning Cheat Sheet

A complete baseline tune for any car in GT7. It works for road cars, race cars, engine-swapped builds, and everything in between. Values validated against in-game data.

How to use this guide

1. Follow the tuning order below. Each setting builds on the one before it.
2. Use the starting values in each section. Some settings (dampers, ARBs, LSD) use the same scale on every car. Others (springs, ride height) vary per car, so I give slider-position guidance instead.
3. Drive 3-5 laps. Something feel wrong? Jump to the troubleshooting section.
4. Make ONE change at a time. Test again. Repeat until it feels right.

Before you start: buy these parts

You need these from GT Auto to access all tuning settings:

• Fully Customizable Suspension — unlocks ride height, springs, dampers, ARBs, camber and toe.
• Fully Customizable LSD — unlocks all 3 differential parameters (scale 5-60). Often lowers PP vs other diff types.
• Fully Customizable Racing Transmission (optional) — unlocks individual gear ratios and fastest shift times.

Ranges vary per car

GT7 gives different cars different tuning ranges. For example:

Dampers, ARBs and LSD use the same scale on every car, so I give exact numbers for those. Natural frequency and ride height vary hugely, so I give slider-position guidance (e.g. "start at midpoint") that works regardless of your car's range.

Pro tip: Save your settings sheet before every change and name them descriptively. You'll want to revert when experiments fail.

The tuning order

Every setting depends on the ones before it. Work through them in this exact sequence.

Golden rule: change one setting at a time, then drive 3-5 laps to evaluate.

1. Aerodynamics (downforce)

Downforce pushes the car into the road at speed, increasing grip without adding weight. Install aero parts (front splitter, rear wing) in GT Auto, then adjust levels in the Tuning Shop. Set this first because it determines how much load your suspension must handle.

The rear wing generates far more force than the front splitter at equal settings. Setting both to the same number produces a rear-heavy aero balance.

The three constants: your tune rests on three values the car always reverts to — weight distribution, front ride height, and downforce balance. These are your foundation.

The speed penalty in GT7 is often surprisingly small while the cornering gains are substantial. Positive rake (rear higher than front) can generate extra rear grip through ground effect: more rake = more rear grip at speed, but more oversteer.

Pro tip: if you add significant downforce, you'll need stiffer springs (Section 3) to prevent bottoming out.

No aero parts installed? Skip this section. Your car relies on mechanical grip alone.

2. Ride height

Warning: if you lower the car too much the wheels can physically rub the wheel arches. When this happens the car refuses to turn — severe understeer no other setting can fix. If the car suddenly won't turn mid-corner, especially over bumps or curbs, raise your ride height before changing anything else.

Ride height (mm) sets how high the car sits. Lower = lower centre of gravity = less body roll = more grip. But too low and you bottom out or rub the arches. Ranges vary hugely (a road car might have 80-180 mm; a Gr.3 only 55-80 front), so use slider position, not absolute numbers.

Rake (rear sits higher than front) is your biggest handling variable here.

Starting position: front 3-5 clicks above your car's minimum, rear 5-8 clicks above minimum. This creates positive rake. The approach is identical regardless of car class or tire compound — the car's range already accounts for the difference. Add 2-3 extra clicks on bumpy tracks (Nordschleife); flat tracks (Fuji, Daytona) can go lower.

Pro tip: lowering ride height produced the biggest lap-time improvement in community testing. Go as low as you can without arch rub. If you change ride height, re-check natural frequency.

3. Natural frequency (spring rate)

Natural frequency (Hz) controls spring stiffness. GT7's Hz system already accounts for the car's weight. The available range varies per car.

The rear offset: GT7 builds in a natural rear offset. On the same car, the rear range starts and ends higher than the front (e.g. front 1.20-3.10, rear 1.35-3.25). So if you set both sliders to the same relative position, the rear is already slightly stiffer. This is by design and promotes rotation.

"Same slider position" means: if you set the front to its midpoint, set the rear to its midpoint too. The built-in offset keeps the rear naturally stiffer. Want more rotation? Move the rear 1-2 clicks stiffer relative to the front.

Heavy cars (>1500 kg): 1-2 clicks stiffer. Light cars (<900 kg): 1-2 clicks softer. Bumpy tracks: 2-3 clicks softer. More downforce from Section 1: go stiffer to handle the load.

4. Anti-roll bars

ARBs resist body roll in corners. GT7 uses a 1-10 scale on all cars (higher = stiffer = flatter). ARBs only act during cornering — no effect on straight-line bumps or braking.

Racing tires: add 2 to both ends. Heavy cars (>1500 kg): add 1 to both ends.

Warning: too stiff and the inside wheel lifts off in corners. Watch replays — if you see daylight under the inside tire, soften that end.

Pro tip: start understeering, then tune toward oversteer. It's easier to add rotation than remove it.

5. Dampers

Springs decide how much the car moves; dampers control how fast. Compression = how fast it squashes down (scale 20-40). Expansion/rebound = how fast it bounces back up (scale 30-50). Same scales on every car.

Cardinal rule: expansion must ALWAYS be higher than compression. A starting pair of comp 30 / exp 40 puts you at midpoint for both.

Bumpy tracks: drop compression 2-3 clicks toward minimum. Endurance: drop all values 1-2 clicks for consistency.

Pro tip: if you stiffen springs, soften dampers slightly. Stiff springs + stiff dampers = the car hops over bumps.

6. Camber

Negative camber means the top of the wheel leans inward. In corners, body roll pushes the outside wheel outward; camber compensates, keeping the tire flat at the apex. In GT7, front camber mainly affects mid-corner grip rather than initial turn-in.

Front camber should generally equal or exceed rear for FR, MR and RR cars. FF/AWD may run higher rear camber to help the rear rotate. Endurance: reduce camber 0.3° both ends to preserve tires.

Pro tip: more body roll (softer springs/ARBs) = increase camber. Less roll = you can reduce it.

7. Toe angles

Toe = whether wheels point inward (toe-in, positive) or outward (toe-out, negative). Any deviation from zero causes tire scrub. Toe is the last alignment adjustment and changes should be tiny.

Short wheelbase (Mini, Fiat 500, Copen): increase rear to +0.08 or +0.10°. Long wheelbase (NSX, LFA): +0.03°. Endurance: minimise toe toward zero.

Warning: don't use toe to fix handling problems that springs, ARBs or LSD should fix. Toe is a scalpel, not a sledgehammer.

8. LSD (limited slip differential)

The LSD controls power sharing between the left and right driven wheels. All three parameters use a 5-60 scale on every car. Higher values lock the wheels together (stability, traction); lower values let them spin independently (rotation, agility). You must buy the Fully Customizable LSD from GT Auto.

• Initial torque (5-60): always-on locking force. Low (5-10) = snappy transitions. High (15+) = smooth but adds understeer. Start at 5.
• Acceleration sensitivity (5-60): wheel locking under throttle. Your corner-exit knob. Higher = more traction, less rotation.
• Braking sensitivity (5-60): wheel locking under braking/coasting. Your corner-entry knob. Higher = stable entry, more understeer.

AWD: Front LSD 5-7 / 5-15 / 5-10, Rear LSD 5-11 / 15-25 / 5-14, centre split 30% front / 70% rear. Keep the front LSD open (low) to preserve turn-in; the rear handles traction.

Pro tip: tune suspension first, then LSD. Get the car balanced mechanically before touching the diff. Setting everything to maximum creates massive understeer and dangerous snap oversteer — adjust 2-5 points at a time.

9. Transmission

1. Set Final Drive all the way RIGHT (shortest ratio).
2. Move Top Speed slider all the way LEFT (lowest speed).
3. Move 1st gear all the way LEFT (longest ratio, prevents wheelspin).
4. Space the remaining gears evenly, getting closer together at the top end.
5. Back out and adjust Final Drive LEFT until you reach your desired top speed.
6. Test: hit redline at the end of the longest straight, just before braking.

Warning: changing the Top Speed slider RESETS all individual gear adjustments. Always set top speed BEFORE touching individual gears.

Lower gears (1st-3rd): wide spacing for acceleration. Upper gears (4th-6th+): closer together to stay in the power band. Final drive influences engine braking: higher = more engine brake (tight tracks), lower = less (flowing tracks).

10. Brake balance

Determines front vs rear braking force. GT7 defaults to a slight front bias.

Pro tip: brake balance is adjustable mid-race via the MFD. Shift it rearward as the front tires wear.

Troubleshooting quick reference

Diagnose using the 3 W's: what is happening, where on the corner (entry / apex / exit), and when during your inputs (braking / coasting / throttle)?

Car understeers (won't turn in)

1. Soften front ARB or stiffen rear ARB
2. Soften front NF by 1-2 clicks
3. Increase front camber by 0.5°
4. Increase front downforce / reduce rear
5. Move brake balance rearward
6. Reduce LSD initial torque

Car oversteers (rear slides out)

1. Stiffen front ARB or soften rear ARB
2. Soften rear NF by 1-2 clicks
3. Increase rear downforce
4. Reduce LSD accel sensitivity by 5
5. Add rear toe-in (+0.05°)
6. Move brake balance forward

Too stiff / bouncy

1. Reduce NF 2-3 clicks both ends
2. Reduce compression damping toward 24-26
3. Soften ARBs by 1-2
4. Raise ride height 2-3 clicks

Too soft / wallowy

1. Increase NF 2-3 clicks both ends
2. Stiffen ARBs by 1-2
3. Increase compression damping toward 34-36
4. Lower ride height 2-3 clicks

Unstable under braking

1. Move brake balance forward
2. Increase LSD braking sensitivity by 5
3. Add rear toe-in (+0.05°)
4. Increase rear expansion toward 42-44
5. Reduce rake (equalise ride heights)

Losing traction on corner exit

1. Check tire indicators: inside spinning = increase LSD accel, outside = decrease
2. Soften rear springs 1-2 clicks
3. Lower rear compression toward 26-28
4. Lengthen lower gear ratios
5. Increase traction control by 1-2

Poor straight-line stability

1. Add rear toe-in (+0.05 to +0.10°)
2. Remove front toe-out (set to 0.00°)
3. Increase rear downforce
4. Reduce excessive negative camber

Excessive tire wear

1. Reduce toe toward neutral on both ends
2. Reduce camber on the wearing end by 0.3°
3. Soften ARBs on the wearing end
4. Reduce LSD accel sensitivity by 5 (rear wear)
5. Shift brake balance away from the wearing end

Car bottoms out

1. Raise ride height 2-3 clicks on the affected end
2. Stiffen NF 2-3 clicks
3. Increase compression toward 34-36
4. Reduce downforce if very high

Car hops over curbs

1. Lower compression toward 24-26
2. Lower expansion toward 34-36
3. Soften ARBs by 1-2
4. Raise ride height 1-2 clicks

Master baseline values

These work across all car types. Print them and keep them next to your TV.

Universal settings (same scale on every car)

Per-car settings (use slider position)

LSD by drivetrain (scale 5-60 on all cars)

GT7 tips every beginner should know

• Tires need warm-up laps. Racing tires are slow when cold. Wait 2 laps before judging your tune.
• Permanent mods are permanent. Weight reduction and body rigidity can't be removed. Keep a duplicate car.
• ECU vs power restrictor. ECU reduces power evenly (preserves the curve). The restrictor kills top end but keeps low-end punch for exits.
• Wheel-arch rubbing kills turn-in. If the car suddenly won't turn mid-corner, ride height is too low. Raise it first.
• PP uses AI simulation. PP doesn't always match real performance. Trust your lap times, not the number.
• Controller vs wheel doesn't change the tune. Core suspension and diff values are identical. Wheel users may reduce assists.
• Fully Customizable LSD can lower PP. Vs other diff types it sometimes costs fewer PP points. Free performance.
• Tuning ranges vary per car. Use slider positions, not absolute numbers, when following guides online.
• Save settings constantly and name them descriptively. You'll break things and need to revert.

Glossary

Free resource for the GT7 community. Share freely. v1.2 — values validated against in-game data, cross-referenced with FILO Engineering, DG EDGE, Coach Dave Academy and GTPlanet. Corrections welcome.